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There are moments in a brand’s history when everything just clicks. For Omega, the 1960s was one such moment. Hot off the success of the Speedmaster’s journey to the moon and the continued dominance of the Seamaster line, Omega decided to fuse the rugged, adventurous spirit of the Seamaster with the refined, urban elegance of their Deville collection. The result was the Seamaster Deville, a watch that, in our opinion, represents one of the greatest “two-for-one” value propositions in all of vintage collecting. It’s a watch that is simultaneously a robust tool watch and a svelte dress watch, a piece that could genuinely do it all.
By the late 1960s, design language was shifting towards cleaner lines and integrated forms, and the Reference 165.020 is a masterclass in this aesthetic. The watch is housed in a brilliant 34mm stainless steel “unishell” case, which was loaded through the front, offering superior water resistance by eliminating the need for a separate, screw-down case back. This was a clever piece of engineering that allowed for a slimmer, more elegant profile without sacrificing the durability the Seamaster name promised, as evidenced by the deeply embossed Hippocampus logo on the back—a hallmark of the line.
At the heart of this timepiece beats the legendary Omega Caliber 552. This is, without exaggeration, one of the finest full-rotor automatic movements ever produced in massive quantities. It’s part of the famed Caliber 55x/56x family, movements so robust, accurate, and beautifully engineered that they powered Omega’s legendary Constellation chronometers. The 552 is essentially the non-chronometer-certified version of the 551, but it was built to the same exacting standards. It’s a bulletproof, in-house marvel of engineering that is a joy to own and can be readily serviced by any competent watchmaker.
This particular example from 1968 is an absolute stunner and a testament to a life well-kept. The silver, sunburst dial is in remarkable, original condition, featuring elegant applied baton markers and original tritium lume pips that have aged to a lovely, subtle patina. What truly completes the package is the original Omega “beads of rice” bracelet. These bracelets are iconic in their own right, known for their supreme comfort and intricate, jewel-like construction. Finding a watch from this period with its original, well-preserved bracelet is becoming increasingly rare.
